THE TIMBER WATERWAYS IN THE FEMUND NATIONAL PARK:

3 DIFFERENT STORIES

Text: Bente M Strømmen, Arve G Lønnum, Vibeke C Strømmen

Photos: Vibeke C Strømmen, Arve G Lønnum & Martin Fossen

"Mom`s story"

Now I`m in the present. Sitting in Synnervika and looking towards Flenskampane. It's summer and the colors that dominate are green, blue, yellow and all shades of the color palette in the water, but last time I was here everything around me was white, blue and yellow. What a difference, but just as beautiful.

The calm settles, the water is calm, the sun comes out more and more and I am ready for a trip. The canoe slides out and I have the whole Femunden in front of me. The oars slides through the water and I feel the power of each pull the oar makes and see the forest and beach glide past.

Nothing else can give me a better feeling of freedom and tranquility than to glide through the water, feel the heat of the sun, see the beautiful mountains in the distance and listen to the silence that is only broken by the sound of the oars as it hits the water.

I round the peninsula and head for a cove. Some waves hit the canoe and it floats easily up and down. A boat a while ago made these waves, but it has disappeared a long time ago and is like a little dot far out there. Soon I'm in a bay. Seeing that it gets shallower and shallower and the dazzling green reed meanders in the water and looks like long golden hair and makes my mind go to the fairytale world and to the creatures that live down there.

A sudden splash brings me back to the present. A large pike broke through the water crust and would probably say that it was disturbed.

Pelican canoe bought at G-Sport at Røros.

I walk through reeds and undergrowth and come to a small pond. Here the reed is higher than me and I can not help but think of fairy tales from childhood where there were miniature worlds with mini-humans and that the insects around them became as big as them. Here I stand in the middle of this fantastic reed landscape and see large water nymphs flying between the reeds. I stand on rocking ground because there are floating islands here and I have to be careful not to fall into the water.

Rocking island of bulrush.

The canoe comes on the water and once again I glide out between high reeds and paddle my way to the other side.

Now I have solid ground under my feet and have entered the pine forest before I have to go out into the canoe again and over another small pond. On the other side, large boulders appear. They are as big as houses and I get thoughts of jotner and trolls who have fought against each other and thrown these huge stones, and thousands of years ago you could hear thunder and crashes when these giants turned together.

Now it is peaceful here and the heat from the forest floor, the dry sound of twigs and baby needles, the smell from forests, trees, heather, moss and berries is absolutely wonderful. I sniff in all the smells and feel how good it makes me. There are lots of ripe, big blueberries here and I just have to pick and eat.

Can it get any better?

Nordvika.

Walks between large pine trees, large boulders on narrow paths and eventually sees that at the end of the path it flashes in a water. Nordvika is there, the old farm is in the sunshine on the other side and attracts me.

Then I'm out on the water again and a little breeze makes the water curl. One headland after another I glide past and finally enter a bay. Now it's much shallower and I see the bottom. The water is completely clear and rocks and reeds and aquatic plants appear. The colors are so different. It goes from iridescent green, moss green, golden and brown and the long reed hair follows us far into the bay. I come to the end and there is the first timber gutter.

On the way to Kalvrenna.

Large, old logs on each side of the gutter. The water gets the canoe forward and I do not have to do anything. I sit there and is carried forward by the water's own power.

Shrubs, flowers, heather and trees are close to me and I feel like I have entered another world. A world that is much bigger than me. From the water's edge, nature rises and I am in one with it.

It trembles in the body, goosebumps and a feeling of satisfaction, something magical and a pleasure that will last a long time.

Then I'm out of the timber gutter and a small pond appears at the end of it. Here it only takes a few strokes with the oars and I'm over on the other side.

Discovering remnants of a bygone era when they floated timber here and thoughts go to those who worked here and what a strenuous life they had and makes me think about whether they took the time to see and enjoy too or if it was just hard work .

On the other side of the pond is a hut. Gray-brown and old and learn that there are many of these around Femundsmarka that are open to hikers. Here you can rest or spend the night and find shelter on a cold winter night.

Pictures appear on the retina of a really cold winter night, the snow glitters in the moonlight, it creaks under the skis, the starry sky with its night blue light and far ahead a small light through a window from the old hut.

Lortholet.

Next phase gets me out of the pictures in my head and gets me out of the canoe. Here we walk next to the gutter because it is too narrow. I get to a bridge and see the canoe coming down. It gets stuck, but with a little force it is loose and gets all the way out to the next pond.

The canoe is to wide, but with a kayak you can take the whole waterway.

Then we paddle on and gets close to the forest. Piles of large pine trees, small shores and bays with high reeds. It narrows, but eventually comes out on a much larger water where I now have to use more force to get me forward.

Inside the banks I can see that people have been here. There are logs and remnants of a campfire site. Here people have rested, maybe fished, maybe spent the night.

Now the penultimate gutter is in front of me, but since it has a drop at the end, I just as well take the dry-shuttered road over some logs and pull the canoe after.

Now Langtjønna is in front of me and it really fits its name.

Sitting by the shore and taking in over me that now I am really in the wilderness, in the middle of Femundsmarka and here it is just to enjoy the view.

We paddle away, get a nice speed on the canoe, stops, lets the canoe drift and look around. Sees Storvigelen on the right side and is pulled towards the mountain. The green color game up there I want to experience. Sucks in every moment, the sparkle in the water, feel the power of the oars, feel the speed in the canoe and see the land on both sides glide past. Some have breaks by the shores, some have tents and hammocks, some fish and some light fires.

Litllangtjønna.

I go ashore and come up to another new hut and it's like entering another time.

Dark brown walls and ceilings, old logs, sooted by light and smoke from an old wood stove. Old, well-used benches and tables with many scars after knives. Here people have found rest, eaten and slept.

Stories have been told and some have left a memory in the form of a sketch and a watercolor on the wall. Old bedside tables stand against the outer walls and in an old cupboard are some utensils and frying pans.

Here you can survive a few nights.

I go out and see large stacks of timber standing against a large pine tree. Firewood, ready to be chopped up to give warmth to the people who travel here.

Old stalls that show that also the animals got some rest and food, when horses were used as a means of transport. Traces of a bygone era.

Around some stones there are several timber benches and here I light a fire.

The afternoon sun shines on me and warms me. The white lichen shines white and dazzles me in the sunshine.

The wind has picked up and I feel it's time to move on.

Some rest and food at Furubakken.

The end of Langtjønna has not yet been reached and there is still a long way to go.

The strokes of the oars become stronger and with headwinds you just have to work your way forward.

Deciduous forest on one side and pine forest on the other. The sun, which enters on the left side, lays the deciduous forest in a dark green, almost black color and gives the pine forest a warm yellow color.

It follows me all the way until I reach a dam.

In Steinsundet and in Langtjønna.

A small stream is open and I see that here there are opportunities to get ahead in the canoe.

The stream is wide enough and seems to have enough water. Close together with trees, willow bushes, flowers, reeds and grass surround me and let me drift downhill in turn after turn. Some ripples in front of me tell me that there may be a small rapids here.

The speed increases and the oars must do the job from side to side. Gets me through the first and suddenly has to dive down with his head for a tree lay at an angle across the bank. It went well and a new turn and a new rapids speed up and new trees were bent outwards.

Now the speed is getting faster and faster and the rapids are getting denser and denser. The stream has now become a small river, it gets shallower and the rocks appear.

Here I have to twist around them in a hurry, but in the end I stand firm, across. It sways in the canoe and for a moment I think it will overturn. I'm stuck and now I can look around.

The sound of the water around the canoe, the sound of the rapids and the water going past all the rocks is fascinating. Close to trees and forests, the water rushing around the canoe and the excitement is palpable.

The blood rushes a little faster, the heart beats a little extra fast, but the feeling is wonderful.

Then I'm out in the open water.

The Ferag Lake is in front of me and it is big.

The wind has picked up and now there are waves towards the beach and I think that here it will be a pretty tough turn.

Feragen and the last timer waterway that`s dried out.

I get in the canoe and embarks on the last part of the trip.

It is balmy here and the paddling is going well. Stop and enjoy the last bit of the trip as the sun is setting and gives the mountains, water and forest around completely new colors.

Dark reddish brown to purple, to lemon yellow and golden and the evening blue summer sky that has all colors in it from light green, light orange, light yellow, to light blue and darker shades of blue the further up in the sky I see.

The sunset is like a wide strip of gold in the water and there the canoe glides forward and I am in it and the end of my trip is over.

Feragshåen.

Start of the Ferag River.

"Dad`s story"

A special and eventful day with elements of magic.

Two cars, four people and a dog drove from the cabin. On the roof of car 1 was a green canoe, on the roof of car 2 a pink kayak. After a short stop at Rema to charge car 1, both drove to Synnervika where all equipment was put on the beach. Then car 1 and car 2 drove to Feragselva where car 1 was parked and car 2 returned to Synnervika where it parked.

Then a paddle tour started with muscle power so the electric motor and petrol engine got a few hours of rest. We rounded a peninsula and aimed at a cove that consisted mainly of pike, reeds and swampy ground. Canoes and kayaks had to be towed with muscle power and my right leg fell in a deep dive in the swamp all the way up to the stomach - twice.

After 100 meters we came to a small pond that was paddled in a few minutes before a new round of towing and carrying led us to another small pond that was done in a few minutes. But now the swamp was gone at least. Then masculine muscle power had to get some outlet with towing and carrying through femundic herb terrain before we, somewhat tired, could take a lunch break in Nordvika which offered a beautiful view and promises of good things to come.

The journey further towards the timber gutter was of the magical kind where we could only revel in the impression of how beautiful Femundsmarka is. The first part of the timber gutter is short, but gave a very nice impression and a state of joy we will never forget. Part 2 comes quickly then, but it is stiff and narrow and Martin paddled with the kayak in a sweep through it before he tried the canoe, but it was too wide and got stuck. So then muscle power was needed again. But there was a lot of laughter and comments and nice filming. Then followed calm paddling over Litjlangtjønna until a new timber gutter that can not be used, so then it was 50 meters rolling and pushing over logs to Langtjønna where there was a lunch break.

Langtjønna rightly bears his name. It is really long and with a slight headwind all the way we felt that paddling requires you to use those muscles. Greeted a fisherman and waved to some hikers who camped there before we took a beach break at an open old cabin - Furubakken - where we lit bonfire and enjoyed ourselves, at the same time as it began to sneak in a certain tiredness and fatigue and longing for the cottage.

A quarter of an hour later we were at the end of the long pond and the kayak and canoe had to be towed over logs to a steep and wide stream that gave an adrenaline kick to several as we sailed without steering over rocks that pressed hard against the bottom and gave us a feeling of not having control. The canoe kept tipping over, we felt the forces of the water and felt for a short while that we could overturn. Support then entered a rock and remained standing. Vibeke was stopped and Martin had to wade and film at the same time. Lots of laughter and nice experience with the elements before we ended up in the big lake Feragen.

Here we met today's challenge. It had been blowing steadily all day and now the waves hit the beach hard. This seemed to be a bit too much of a challenge for us as the waves would hit us sideways. Then Martin came with his practical and solution-oriented view and said he wanted to paddle the kayak with the canoe in tow in the direction we were going, while the other three of us got followed a path along the water. We met some campers who said it would be about 5 kilometers to our destination for the trip, but then Martin showed up after a short while and said it was crumbly waters in a "fjord arm" we were going to paddle towards the end destination. So then we re-entered the kayak and canoe and paddled towards the sunset. Around the next headland, we said several times, before we finally rounded the last headland where the Feragselva begins and we could finally go ashore after 12 hours full of experiences and impressions.

Tired, but full of good feelings about having done more than we had expected, car 1 was loaded and driven to Synnervika to pick up car 2 so that all four plus a tired poodle came to the cabin, showered, ate and laughed a lot at movies, pictures and thoughts we had. It sounds simple and tedious to say thank you for the trip, but in this case it is really sincerely meant.

"Vibeke`s story"

Last year, Martin and I had the maiden voyage through the timber gutters in Femundsmarka in Røros. It was a trip that for us has been magical to think back on. The trip went smoothly and has been strong in our memories for over a year. It has been written about before here on the website, so take a look there.

Over the last year we have talked a lot about this trip and we have always wanted to have more with us who can experience how nice it is out here. When we in the family decided to invest in a canoe as a permanent fixture on the cabin, this purchase meant that now we no longer have any excuse for not being able to take my parents on this trip. Only the weather must be on our side. This weekend it looked very promising and we got ready for the trip.

The logistics are as follows: Both cars drove to Synnervika. There, canoes and kayaks were left with all luggage. Then both cars drove to Feragsveien where a car was left on top of Feragselva. Then the other car drove back to Synnervika and from there it was time to get out on the water.

It started a little cloudy, but with a very nice temperature. The sun broke through and it became summer. The trip went over the same ponds that are described with photos and maps from the trip last year. (Femundsmarka 2019).

The stage from Synnervika to Nordvika is the most tiring as you have to pull / carry a canoe and kayak, but after that, the adventure started. In timber gutter no. 2, the kayak went through, but the canoe is too wide and got stuck in several places. But it got through.

After eating after gutter no. 3, the wind unfortunately increased and it was not so nice to paddle in headwinds. We went ashore on Furubakken and here Martin lit a fire and arranged coffee for himself and my father. Here on Furubakken in Langtjønna you can spend the night inside the old house. It's a great area. After a long break here, we continued up to the last run that is not possible to get through. That is why we use Langtjønnbekken to get down to Feragen. This is a river with rapids and here we got like last year even more adrenaline rush. Especially when we get stuck across. From the pictures you can see both joy, laughter and a little skepticism. Martin had to go out and get us loose, but not before he had taken pictures. I was so lucky that I got to record this whole session on video. I put the phone in the pocket of the life jacket, pressed the record and hoped for the best. And it is an 8 minute long funny video of laughter, cheers and comments. Worth to see.

Our crazy run down Langtjønnbekken.

Out in Feragen we were met with a lot of wind and waves. Only Martin is experienced enough to handle such conditions. We lost a little courage, but a deliberation led him to attach the canoe to the kayak and paddling up towards Feragsåen where we all reckoned that the wind would lie enough for us to paddle further. The other three of us plus the dog set off along the path that goes here and which can be walked all the way to Feragsveien and Feragselva. Luckily we did not have to walk all the way since Martin had paddled to land a little further up and there the water was calm. At a camp we met three men who we asked about the path to the Feragselva and they reckoned that it was 5 km there. I felt like a real amateur on a trip with only sneakers, a hoodie and a small purple backpack on my back. They probably thought we had never been out hiking in the woods and mountains before, but I never managed to explain to these three that we have enough experience and that we were actually on a paddle trip. Ah well.

We're starting to get tired now. We have been out for almost 12 hours and the evening is soon upon us. The paddle trip up the river is long and you do not feel you are reaching the end station. But I manage to feel that this is magical anyway where I paddle on the water that is colored by the sun which is now lower than what it would have done earlier in the summer. Martin gets a picture of me where I have ended up in the middle of the sun strip. This is magical.

Kayaker i the sunset.

Finally we arrive and I'm dead tired. My body hurts everywhere. I have had Khaleesi between my legs all the time and my legs are sore and my hips hurt. I have pain in my shoulder and my elbows are sore. I feel like I have the bad legs of an 80 year old when I got out of the kayak. I have to force myself to eat some food and drink some cola, and it's still a long time until we're back in the cabin.

For now, the canoe must be lifted on top the car roof. And I have to drive to Synnervika to pick up our car. Then I have to pick up Martin who has been waiting with my kayak. Here we discover that mom and dad have driven away with our tighteners. Luckily we had bought new ones that is in the car, so we got the kayak on the roof. Then it was time to get home to the cabin. And it takes almost an hour. Across the road, a grouse and grouse strut and even closer to the cabin, 2 moose cross the road.

The day has been fantastic, but I have paid a lot for this. I have aching arms that prevent me from sleeping and I have to take painkillers and wrap my forearms in compression tape. It helps a little, but I end up having a little fever and have to have a few days to catch up.

Exhausted.

Beautiful sunset.